TIMELESS TONGA
CHARTER SAILING IN A POLYNESIAN PARADISE
When thinking of Tonga in the South Pacific, the mind conjures up images of a Polynesian paradise - white sand beaches on lush tropical islands, sprinkled like emeralds on a turquoise sea. Supplement that image with quiet anchorages, warm breezes and crystal-clear waters and it's understandable why Tonga is considered one of the world's premiere sailing destinations.
GETTING THERE Tonga's remoteness, about 1300 nautical miles northeast of New Zealand, may be partly responsible for the islands retaining their unspoiled beauty and timeless character. But for Canadian charter sailors, it's a long way off; 17 hours flying time from Vancouver on three different airlines. We know, we've been there - and would return in a heartbeat. It's amazing how quickly travel fatigue is dissipated by the excitement and anticipation of visiting a new culture.
Sandy and I, with our friends Barry and Joan, scheduled a bareboat sailing charter with The Moorings for two weeks in March. We booked our flights from Vancouver, via Los Angeles, to the main island of Tongatapu. However, we wisely decided to use Pacific Travel Marketing (a Tongan travel agency) to book our inter-island flight to Vava'u, the primary sailing area. When our flight from LA was delayed, our agent Ruby rescheduled the inter-island flight, booked us into a comfortable B&B on Tongatapu, met us at the airport and toured us around the island. This fortuitous adventure gave us an opportunity to experience the bustling capital city of Nuku'alofa, a world away from life back home.
But our one-hour flight on Airlines Tonga to the Vava'u island group would take us even further back in time.
SETTING OUT After a restful night's sleep and sumptuous breakfast at the Paradise International Hotel, we proceed to The Moorings base. Sirocco, our 41' Beneteau gleaming in the sunshine, is awaiting our arrival. After stowing our gear, we receive a thorough boat and chart orientation, and then take a short cab ride into downtown Neiafu to purchase provisions. The experience is enlightening - and most likely amusing to the locals. Following a visit to the ATM, we fill the trunk with items from several small grocery stores, a bakery, meat supplier, wine store and an outdoor market. The sun is hot and the pace slow - considerably slower than our frenetic efforts to finish the shopping so we can go sailing. We enjoy practicing the language and learning the currency, which initially involves holding out a handful of cash and allowing vendors to pick the correct amount!
Vava'u is a cluster of 50 islands scattered across 15 miles of ocean, protected from swells by outlying reefs. The Moorings' navigational chart of this area identifies 42 designated anchorages, half of which are approved for overnight in prevailing southeast winds. The area is small enough that one can sail from one end to the other in just a few hours. Yet, in two weeks it's impossible to see it all. However, we do manage to visit a few villages and more than a few deserted islands for beachcombing, snorkeling and replenishing our souls.
THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS Waves lap softly against our hull. A rooster crows; church bells ring. I peek through one eye at my watch. It's 5 am. What? Who goes to church at five o'clock on a Sunday morning? In the village of Matamaka, everyone does - all 350 islanders, young and old, attend church at 5 am, again at 10 am, and then again at 4 pm. Religion, we're about to discover, is a very important part of Tongan culture.
Anchored just off a crescent beach bordering the village, we tie up our dinghy to a coconut tree and amble ashore to explore. Almost immediately, we receive a warm welcome from Fa'aki and her husband Ben, who live in a small house with their five young children. All are dressed in their Sunday's finest; clean and colourful. We ask if we can visit their village. In very good English, they graciously offer to show us around. Six churches, a school, playground, Kava House and an array of small houses line the dirt path that meanders through the village. Only the churches and the Kava House have electricity; which means there are no refrigerators, stoves, washers or any other electrical conveniences that we Canadians take for granted. Domestic pigs, dogs and chickens wander about. Columns of smoke rise from outdoor cooking pits. Everyone we meet smiles shyly and says hello ("Malo e lelei"). Captain Cook, in 1777 called Tonga "The Friendly Isles" and we can certainly see why. We feel like we have been transported back a couple of centuries, when people lived off the land and sea, bonding together to ensure survival.
Since it is nearly 10 o'clock Fa'aki invites us to join her family at their church service. We accompany them up a hillside to a small building made of coconut tree 2x4's with open doors and windows. While we sit on woven floor mats with a dozen faithful villagers, the young minister plays guitar and everyone sings along. Their voices are incredibly clear and inspirational. After a passionate sermon in Tongan by the minister's wife, punctuated by "Hallelujahs," the minister thanks us for joining them and wishes us a safe journey. The young girls pick wild flowers and present them to Joan and Sandy. A young boy offers his hand to help Sandy down a slippery bank, a spontaneous gesture so characteristic of Tongan kindness.
As we pass the Kava House, Barry asks: "What goes on in there?" Ben invites us into the small building occupied by a half-dozen men sitting in a circle on the matted floor. Kava is a brown, watery drink made from the dried roots of a pepper plant. It is widely used as a ceremonial drink throughout most of Polynesia. The Kava House serves as a meeting place, mostly for men it seems. After introductions, we are offered half coconut shells as cups and invited to try it. We describe our first taste as bitter with a slight tingling of the lips and tongue. The men smile approvingly with stifled laughter. Apparently, after a few drinks, the effect is a feeling of calmness, which to Tongans represents renewal. After our drink, some conversation, laughter, and an awareness of the importance of this tradition in the daily lives of Tongans, we bid farewell and continue back to the boat.
On the way, Ben and Fa'aki invite us for lunch and we agree, but only if they join us on board. They arrive in their small fishing boat with fresh mussels cooked in coconut milk, boiled tapioca root, and a mango-coconut cordial. We are extremely honoured by their generosity, sharing their meager food supplies with relative strangers. In return, we offer them a roll of aluminum foil, dry pasta, canned goods, a Canuk's hat, and some lollipops and gifts for their children. After they leave, Joan and Sandy conspire to "adopt" this lovely family and immediately start planning a care package to be sent to them at Christmas.
On the most western island of Hunga in front of Ika Lahi Lodge, we tie to a mooring buoy for $10 Tongan, about $6 Canadian (a small price to pay for sound sleep!). In anticipation of a visit to the village school the next morning, we gather together some school supplies and various children's toys. Our visit is delightful. David, the principal, holds an impromptu recess and invites us inside. Although the children are initially reserved, Sandy and Joan soon have them gathered around, intent to learn some Canadian English, eh?, and to sing along "If you're happy and you know it, clap your hands�." Later, in the village we meet an elderly woman who proudly shows us her beautiful flowers and then offers us a few mangos. She reluctantly accepts our handful of change.
SIMPLY BREATHTAKING The Moorings arrange a Tongan Feast on a centrally located beach for their charterers, a score of sailors from various countries. Guitars and drums accompany graceful young dancers, followed by an authentic meal of local foods.
Conversation mostly involves things to see and do in the islands. Everyone has his or her favourite snorkeling reef or secluded sandy beach.
One of our favourites is Maninita, a small island furthest south, designated as a bird sanctuary. Under sunny skies and brisk easterlies, we beam reach for a couple of hours with two other charter boats. Along the way, a school of Spinner dolphins play in our bow wave. A serpentine turquoise path through a matrix of coral leads to a sheltered lagoon.
Boobys, petrels, terns and various other sea birds circle the forest canopy as we respectfully explore this special place blessed by nature. The shallow reefs are teaming with colourful fish; the beaches look and feel like granular sugar. Designated as a "day anchorage," we reluctantly weigh anchor and retrace our route to yet another picturesque island.
One of the truly breathtaking experiences, for me at least, is Mariner's Cave. The entrance to this submerged cave is three metres down (at high tide) and four metres horizontally beneath an overhanging rock. The assent is another three meters before surfacing inside a cavernous limestone grotto. Some local knowledge and commitment are required for this dive. Jim and Simon, fellow charterers who had dove it last year, supply the local knowledge. Since there are no signs indicating the entrance, they dive first and don't return; which means either that I am in the right spot or they're never coming back! I take a deep breath and commit - popping up inside like a desperate walrus gasping for air. Standing on a ledge, our ears plug each time the misty air is compressed by the incoming one-metre swell. Going out is less intimidating as we can see sunshine through the opening. (Incidentally, one can practice for this feat by diving underneath the boat keel from one side to the other, or better yet bow to stern.) Nearby Swallow's Cave is another popular natural feature. This large cavern at the waterline can be entered and explored by dinghy, which suits my non-committal crew just fine!
Each morning on VHF Channel 6, sailors are provided with tide and weather information, including a forecast. Most days we get a mixture of sun and cloud with 10 to 20-knot breezes providing comfortable sailing. On our last day, 30-knot "breezes" prompt a reefed jib and main sail. Charging back to The Moorings base, we're totally pumped and at the same time saddened as we approach the end to our adventure. After lifting off the runway and gaining altitude, we peer out the window at our now familiar playground with the hope that this pristine paradise will always remain timeless and welcoming to future sailors.
TROUBLE IN PARADISE?
The Tongan government is one of the few absolute monarchies in the world. For 40 years, a beloved and benevolent king ruled the country until his death in 2006, when the succession of his son to the throne set off previously unheard of civil disobedience in the capital city of Nuku'alofa. Angry rioters, expressing dissatisfaction with the lack of democratic reforms, damaged a significant number of buildings. During our visit four months later, the town was rebuilding and islanders were more inclined to "give the new king a chance."
On Taunga Island, in the Vava'u group, a groundbreaking ceremony took place just prior to our visit. A group of foreign investors are building a large five-star hotel on the same island that is home to the tidy little village where Joel proudly showed us around, where Alice gave us a bag of mangos, and where Betty sold us her handmade woven baskets and bracelets from a panga (small boat).
One can only hope that future directions will not compromise the traditions or values of these beautiful people.
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